29 May 1790:
Judith Sargent Murray to Winthrop Sargent
and Judith Saunders Sargent
Letter 747 To my Father and Mother Brunswick
May 29th 1790 Saturday Evening
On Tuesday morning we quitted New Rochelle, coming on through East Chester, crossing Knight Bridge, and passing over Harlem Plains, to New York — The country round New York is mountainous, and the traveller is amused with all the charms of variety [—] a few elegant seats are scattered near the City, and we entered through a fine airy space, known by the name of the Bowery, and bordered by neatly finished, and convenient dwellings — The ground upon which New York is built, was originally very unequal, but, with incesant labour, and industry, the hills have been thrown in to the Vallies, and it is now a fine extensive tract, nearly level —
Everything in the City of New York, seems upon a larger scale, than in the Town of Boston — and I am told it covers a full third more ground — The streets are longer and more capacious, and [there] is an air of thriftyness, as well as elegance about the buildings far surpassing any thing I have ever yet seen — The streets of New York are paved with more exactness than those of Boston, many of them are arched and to obviate the inconvenience of pavements, to the stranger, they are generally raised on each side, several inches above the surface, and smoothly laid with brick over which you may pursue your way, with much ease — The houses are principally of Brick and Broadway presents a pile of buildings, in the centre of which, the President resides, which are in deed truly magnificent — The Citizens of New York have erected many public buildings, no less than twenty Churches, among which are Episcopalians, presbyterians, Quakers, dutch institutions, Roman Catholics, and Jews [—] The Columbian University is a spacious structure, presenting in Front no less than sixty windows — The Hospital, Bridewell and Work house, figure respectably, and I am told are under excellent regulations — St Paul’s Church towers with mingling elegance, and grandeur, and is fronted by a Monument, sacred to the memory of General Montgomery, adorned with military insignia etc etc —
But my attention was principally attracted by the federal edifice — Its very air majestically descriptive, seems to designate it consecrated to National purposes, and it is of course interesting to every genuine American — Almost entirely unacquainted with the terms of Art, the attempt to delineate, may draw upon me an accusation of arrogance yet I will nevertheless hazard a slight sketch [—] Its situation is pronounced ill judged — It is however erected at the head of broad street, of which it commands a complete view — an elegant church is nearby finished upon its right, and upon its left, a good street of a thrifty appearance winds its way — The Federal structure is magnificently pleasing and sufficiently spacious — Four large pillars in front, support an equal number of columns, with their pediment — A large gallery also, presents, in which in the presence of Almighty God, and in view of a numerous Concourse of people, the illustrious, and immortal Washington, took his oath of office, being thus solemnly inaugurated, and cloathed with powers, which we doubt not he will continue to exercise, with augmenting celebrity to himself, as well as for the public weal — Thirteen Stars, the American Arms, crested with the spread eagle, with other insignia in the pediment, tablets over each window, which tablets are filled with the thirteen arrows, surrounded with an olive branch, are among the principal ornaments which emblematically adorn, and beautify the front of the Federal Edifice —
The entrance introduces into a square room, which is paved with stone, from which we pass on to the Vestibule in the centre of the pile — This Vestibule is lofty, it is floored with marble, and highly finished, with a handsome iron Gallery, and a sky light richly adorned — From this Vestibule we proceed to the floor of the Representatives’ Room, and through arches on either side, by a public staircase on the left, and a private one on the right, to the senate Chamber, and other apartments —
The room appropriated to the Representatives is spacious, and elegant — It is worthy the respectable assembly now convened there — It is sixty one feet deep — fifty eight feet wide, and thirty six feet high [—] its ceiling is arched and I should have called its form Oval, but I believe the technical term is octangular — four of its sides are rounded in the manner of arches which adds much to its beauty, and gracefulness — the windows are large, and wainscoted below, interrupted only by stoves, which I think are four in number — above are columns, and pilasters, with entablatures variously disposed, and in the pannels between the windows, trophies are carved, and the letters U.S. surrounded with laurel — The Chair of the Speaker is opposite the principal door — and it is elevated three steps, the chairs of the members form around it a semicircle — a writing stand properly furnished, is placed before every chair. In one piece a number of these stands are connected, which piece forms a segment of a circle — upon the right and left of the speaker, are semicircular compartments, in which are tables for the accommodation of the Clerks — Over the great door, and fronting the Speaker two Galleries are erected — The lower Gallery projects considerably — This is commonly, during the Sessions of the Assembly, filled by gentlemen, and the upper Gallery is appropriated to Ladies — Besides these galleries, a space upon the floor, separated by a bar, may be occasionally occupied by visiting individuals — This apartment is furnished with three doors, exclusive of the principal entrance, all of which are conveniently disposed — The chairs, curtains, and hangings in this room, are of light blue harateen, fringed and tasselled, and the floor is elegantly carpeted —
We have received many civilities from Mr Goodhue, who introduced us into the upper Gallery, where we attended the debates of Congress, for near four hours — the scene was truly august, and as I threw my eyes around, taking a view of the delegates of America thus convened, a solemn air pervaded my bosom — a new, and undefinable sensation originated a hand of enraptured veneration, and I prepared to listen with most profound attention — But I shall own a truth — Let it be better said in a whisper — my reverential feelings considerably abated, as I observed the apparent negligence, of many of the members — a question of much importance was agitated, and investigated by several speakers — and that with a warmth, and energy, which would have done honour to a Demasthenes, or a Cicero, while, with all imaginable sang froid, gentlemen were walking to, and fro — their hats occasionally on, or off — Reading the News papers — lolling upon their writing stands — picking their nails, biting the heads of their canes, examining the beauty of their shoe Buckles, ogling the Gallery etc etc [—] yet we were fortunate enough to hear some of the best Speakers, among them Mr Maddison, Mr Ames, Mr Sedgwick, Mr Jackson, and Mr Vinning —
From the stairs upon the left hand of the Vestibule, we reach a Lobby that communicates with the Iron Gallery, which leads on one hand to the door of the representatives Room, and on the other to the senate Chamber — The senate Chambers is pleasingly decorated — the pilasters etc are highly ornamented, and amid the foliage of the Capitals, a splendid star makes its appearance, surrounded with rays, while a small medallion is suspended by a piece of drapery, with the interesting letters U.S. in a cypher — The ceiling presents a sun, and thirteen Stars, which appear in its centre — The Chimnies are finished with American Marble, said to be equal for the beauty of its shades, and high polish, to any found in Europe — The Presidential chair is, of course, stationary in the upper end of the senate chamber — It is elevated several steps from the floor, and placed under a superb canopy of crimson damask — The chairs arranged semicircularly, as in the room of the Representatives, with the window curtains, and hangings are also of crimson damask, and the floor is richly carpeted — From the throne, or chair of state, his highness, the Protector of the Union, delivers a speech at the opening, and close of a Session which doth not much vary either in form, or manner, from those delivered by a british Sovereign, we differ essentially in nothing, but in name, and it is possible the time is not far distant which may invest us with royal dignities —
There are in the Federal edifice, many other apartments, besides those of which I have attempted a sketch, guard rooms, Committee Rooms, and a handsome library — In the room of audience, we were shown portraits of the reigning King, and Queen of France, which are very fine Paintings — One side of the Federal edifice is furnished with a Platform railed in with iron, which affords an agreeable Walk, and the cupola is in good taste, highly ornamental, producing a very pleasing effect, and summing to give a finishing to the whole — An elegant statue of Lord Chatham once distinguished a principal street in New York, and in a spacious square, majestically towered an equestrian figure of George the third King of Great Britain — But alas! such hath been the ascendancy, shall I say of Gothic animocity, as to procure their destruction –
New York exhibits no promenade, equal to the mall in Boston — But we intend visiting the orangery, and the seats on the north river, on our way home, and we already know this River abounds with beautiful imagery [—] The North or Hudson’s River, rolls its waters along its Banks — the sound divides it from Long Island — Staten Island is in view with many other less considerable Islands — Thus variously are the Land, and water prospects displayed — New York, however suffers in the lack of good water — Every family not residing in the Bowery, being obliged to purchase tea water etc etc [—] New York is undoubtedly a populace, and opulent City; many of the streets remind me of the picturesque views, which we have so often admired upon paper, at present the seat of Government, it may be considered as the Metropolis of America, but it is probable it will not retain this distinction — During our attendance in the federal Edifice, a removal was proposed, seconded, and laid upon the table [—] Philadelphia, and New York are rival Cities — the Southern chambers are for convening in Philadelphia, the question hath been frequently agitated, until it has become annexed to the most important National concerns — I am told there is an agreement between the Southern, and Eastern Members — If the Eastern delegates give their voices in favour of one question, the Southern Gentlemen, will aid them in another! If this information be correct, will not that august Body depart (while engaged in this kind of dangerous, and unbecoming traffic, much from their dignity?[)] Is it not bartering for public weal? — Yet Members of Congress are but Men —
General Washington hath consecrated one day in the week his levee day upon which gentlemen visit him without ceremony, passing in and out at pleasure — Mrs Washington’s Levee is upon friday — the General is always present — Ladies then pay their Compliments, and strangers, having an acquaintance with any of Mrs Washington’s familiar friends, are properly introduced — Had we tarried long enough in New York, we should have been presented — We have that honour in prospect, upon our return — Lady Temple hath also her Levee days — The whispers of malevolence and ingratitude against our illustrious Chief, are already afloat! He is accused of favouritism if I may so express myself, and the name of Colonel Humphrys is repeated, with a jealous kind of Acrimony — But enough of dignities —
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Notes:
- Paragraph breaks are mine
- "We" means Judith and her husband, Rev. John Murray
